Hey all,
I know I promised you an elaborate recounting of my second Overnighter into Sarajevo, but I will adhere to some unwritten rules on writing and not bore you with talk about trains twice in a row (rule does not apply to online blogs aboard the Transsiberian Express)
I'm skipping a few weeks ahead to Krakow, partly because the city's made much more of an impression on me than Vienna (from where I took another Overnighter into Krakow) but also because I think I know why we lost to Denmark yesterday. I blame the Nazis.
Let me start at the beginning. Like I said, extensive coverage of Sarajevo and Bosnia will follow soon. I am now in Wroclaw, one of Poland's designated tourist traps during Euro 2012 (thousands of white/red faced Polish fans chant loud football slurs to thousands of white/red/blue faced Czechs who, in turn, run from hundreds of blue/white/red faced Russians who've all taken up residence in this small but beautiful town)
I came from Krakow a week or so ago, stopped over in Berlin to set up shop in my new house, and came back to Wroclaw to write some song lyrics for a local band here and watch the footy. I am an orange shirted Dutch fan watching all the chanting and running and drinking and realise once and for all how alike we all are during football. Frustratingly this realisation does not inspire all people here to 'just get along'. Funnily enough, even though I was warned that I would be stabbed by a Russian, or mugged by a Pole during my stay, it was the Dutch that really made we want to vomit.
During the Nederland match I met up with some extravagantly dressed Dutch men on the Wraclow main square; designated Fan Zone and well organised beer drinking/footy watching area. During the 2 hours before the game we were interviewed by at least 3 Polish local TV shows, photographed by at least 10 times as many people and made to participate in an art project about football (only) once. Save to say we were a sight to behold. (You have to imagine that there were a handful of Dutch Holland supporters there amongst a sea of Poles rooting for Holland. Hordes of Poles came up to us and spoke a few broken words of Dutch, or showed us the Dutch flags they had painted on their sons' cheeks. I felt like the whole world was on our side that afternoon and wanted to kick Geert Wilders in the face for being such an arse)
We sang the volkslied arm in arm (more iPhones in our face) and we cheers'd our team. We all know what happend during the match, so there were 8 grown men groaning and one tall girl hiding in her hoodie all throughout the second half of the game. I think 10 minutes before the final whistle Van Marwijk decides to give Huntelaar and v/d Vaart a chance, meaning Affelay (and Snijder?) are bench bound. From my right the oldest Drenthenaar of the bunch (I'm including his origins for a reason) suddenly exclaims; "Werd eens tijd dat die kut Marokkaan d'r uit ging". (which I think all non-native Dutch speakers can get the gist of) The man subsequently added some other derogatory remarks. I replied with a modest "Nou nou" to which I instantly received "Jij woont zeker niet in een grote stad dan he?". The good man himself was from Drenthe, I replied I lived in The Hague. We got into an argument from which I'll save you the details.
I include this little episode just to show that throughout my travels I have not heard one racist remark, not once has someone in Sarajevo said something about the Muslim community, not once did the Poles lash out against the Russians and never did anyone make me feel less, or more, of a person for being Dutch until that moment. I can honestly say that I felt ashamed to be Dutch and were it not for my bright orange top I would've liked to have melted away in the sea of red and white around me. I stayed until the final whistle, when the Dutch man threw his beer on the ground and left without a word.
This in a roundabout way leads me back to Krakow and Nazis. In Krakow I went to visit Auschwitz. An experience that some choose to avoid, but something that I purposely wanted to have done once in my life. As a person morbidly fascinated by war (de Oorlogstourist) I read these books or visit these sites to become and remain aware that a simple man is capable of doing inhumane things. Reminding myself of my (confusing) principles and teaching myself not to hate. By doing so hoping that if the time comes I have to make a decision between 'right' and 'wrong', I will be able to make an informed choice and not just 'follow the leader'.
I will not tell you of the way the tours are run, or the manner in which the guide is out to shock the socks off of you. Nor will I paint you the picture of the tourists posing in front of the Auschwitz main gate or the photographes they snapped of the personal belongings and hair of female prisoners exhibited on site. I will tell you that the visit left me in a two day gloom from which only the company of strangers and 2 pints of lager could relieve me. It was not the story, nor the images they show you in Auschwitz, I've been through the gruesome realisation of all that before. It was the way in which we humans dealt and deal with each other that always gets me. First 65 years ago when disrespect, ignorance, hate and disgust led to the eradication of almost all of Poland's Jews, Roma, homosexuals and other so-called 'subhumans'. Or, two days ago, where we blame the 1-0 loss of a footballmatch on a Maroccan player just because he's part of a group of people we dislike.
No wonder that when Oranje visited Auschwitz last week they might have momentarily lost some of the drive to play football, I didn't even feel the need to be human for a moment. And then, when faced with the ignorance, disrespect and hate of some of my people for another of my people, I don't very much feel the need to be Dutch anymore either.
I know this is volatile subject matter and apologise if this depresses and/or offends anyone. Also using a comparison of the Holocaust and Football is not the most sensitive thing either.
I'm very open to discussion, and would love to know what you think.
I promise next update will be about puppies.
Love,
Myrthe
I know I promised you an elaborate recounting of my second Overnighter into Sarajevo, but I will adhere to some unwritten rules on writing and not bore you with talk about trains twice in a row (rule does not apply to online blogs aboard the Transsiberian Express)
I'm skipping a few weeks ahead to Krakow, partly because the city's made much more of an impression on me than Vienna (from where I took another Overnighter into Krakow) but also because I think I know why we lost to Denmark yesterday. I blame the Nazis.
Let me start at the beginning. Like I said, extensive coverage of Sarajevo and Bosnia will follow soon. I am now in Wroclaw, one of Poland's designated tourist traps during Euro 2012 (thousands of white/red faced Polish fans chant loud football slurs to thousands of white/red/blue faced Czechs who, in turn, run from hundreds of blue/white/red faced Russians who've all taken up residence in this small but beautiful town)
I came from Krakow a week or so ago, stopped over in Berlin to set up shop in my new house, and came back to Wroclaw to write some song lyrics for a local band here and watch the footy. I am an orange shirted Dutch fan watching all the chanting and running and drinking and realise once and for all how alike we all are during football. Frustratingly this realisation does not inspire all people here to 'just get along'. Funnily enough, even though I was warned that I would be stabbed by a Russian, or mugged by a Pole during my stay, it was the Dutch that really made we want to vomit.
During the Nederland match I met up with some extravagantly dressed Dutch men on the Wraclow main square; designated Fan Zone and well organised beer drinking/footy watching area. During the 2 hours before the game we were interviewed by at least 3 Polish local TV shows, photographed by at least 10 times as many people and made to participate in an art project about football (only) once. Save to say we were a sight to behold. (You have to imagine that there were a handful of Dutch Holland supporters there amongst a sea of Poles rooting for Holland. Hordes of Poles came up to us and spoke a few broken words of Dutch, or showed us the Dutch flags they had painted on their sons' cheeks. I felt like the whole world was on our side that afternoon and wanted to kick Geert Wilders in the face for being such an arse)
We sang the volkslied arm in arm (more iPhones in our face) and we cheers'd our team. We all know what happend during the match, so there were 8 grown men groaning and one tall girl hiding in her hoodie all throughout the second half of the game. I think 10 minutes before the final whistle Van Marwijk decides to give Huntelaar and v/d Vaart a chance, meaning Affelay (and Snijder?) are bench bound. From my right the oldest Drenthenaar of the bunch (I'm including his origins for a reason) suddenly exclaims; "Werd eens tijd dat die kut Marokkaan d'r uit ging". (which I think all non-native Dutch speakers can get the gist of) The man subsequently added some other derogatory remarks. I replied with a modest "Nou nou" to which I instantly received "Jij woont zeker niet in een grote stad dan he?". The good man himself was from Drenthe, I replied I lived in The Hague. We got into an argument from which I'll save you the details.
I include this little episode just to show that throughout my travels I have not heard one racist remark, not once has someone in Sarajevo said something about the Muslim community, not once did the Poles lash out against the Russians and never did anyone make me feel less, or more, of a person for being Dutch until that moment. I can honestly say that I felt ashamed to be Dutch and were it not for my bright orange top I would've liked to have melted away in the sea of red and white around me. I stayed until the final whistle, when the Dutch man threw his beer on the ground and left without a word.
This in a roundabout way leads me back to Krakow and Nazis. In Krakow I went to visit Auschwitz. An experience that some choose to avoid, but something that I purposely wanted to have done once in my life. As a person morbidly fascinated by war (de Oorlogstourist) I read these books or visit these sites to become and remain aware that a simple man is capable of doing inhumane things. Reminding myself of my (confusing) principles and teaching myself not to hate. By doing so hoping that if the time comes I have to make a decision between 'right' and 'wrong', I will be able to make an informed choice and not just 'follow the leader'.
I will not tell you of the way the tours are run, or the manner in which the guide is out to shock the socks off of you. Nor will I paint you the picture of the tourists posing in front of the Auschwitz main gate or the photographes they snapped of the personal belongings and hair of female prisoners exhibited on site. I will tell you that the visit left me in a two day gloom from which only the company of strangers and 2 pints of lager could relieve me. It was not the story, nor the images they show you in Auschwitz, I've been through the gruesome realisation of all that before. It was the way in which we humans dealt and deal with each other that always gets me. First 65 years ago when disrespect, ignorance, hate and disgust led to the eradication of almost all of Poland's Jews, Roma, homosexuals and other so-called 'subhumans'. Or, two days ago, where we blame the 1-0 loss of a footballmatch on a Maroccan player just because he's part of a group of people we dislike.
No wonder that when Oranje visited Auschwitz last week they might have momentarily lost some of the drive to play football, I didn't even feel the need to be human for a moment. And then, when faced with the ignorance, disrespect and hate of some of my people for another of my people, I don't very much feel the need to be Dutch anymore either.
I know this is volatile subject matter and apologise if this depresses and/or offends anyone. Also using a comparison of the Holocaust and Football is not the most sensitive thing either.
I'm very open to discussion, and would love to know what you think.
I promise next update will be about puppies.
Love,
Myrthe
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